2023 Desire Lines Cole Ranch Riesling

94 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
"The 2023 Riesling Cole Ranch is redolent of citrus peel, exotic flowers, chalk, white pepper and mint. This is a more vibrant, saline expression of Riesling compared to the other wines in the range. Clean mineral notes frame the sustained finish. The 5.6 grams per liter of residual sugar works well here, as does aging in 1000L Stockinger casks."

We have the audacious ambition to make the benchmark California Riesling, and this particular rendition of 1973-planted Cole Ranch is our best and clearest statement to that effect. In 2023, all the dials are turned up – more acidic, more intense, more precise, more aromatic. The titratable acidity is almost a gram higher than usual for this wine, and the alcohol is almost a point lower, which wonderfully balances the 5.6 g/L of residual sugar and richness from a ten-month élevage in 1000-liter Stockinger ovals. This is an energetic, dazzling wine with classic Cole Ranch white peach, tropical notes, and orange confit accented by jasmine, honey, and ginger. The palate shows terrific fruit weight and a satin-y density that’s offset by striking acidity— we love drinking this wine over the course of three or four days in its youth to watch it evolve.