2023 Desire Lines Cole Ranch Riesling
We have the audacious ambition to make the benchmark California Riesling, and this particular rendition of 1973-planted Cole Ranch is our best and clearest statement to that effect. In 2023, all the dials are turned up – more acidic, more intense, more precise, more aromatic. The titratable acidity is almost a gram higher than usual for this wine, and the alcohol is almost a point lower, which wonderfully balances the 5.6 g/L of residual sugar and richness from a ten-month élevage in 1000-liter Stockinger ovals. This is an energetic, dazzling wine with classic Cole Ranch white peach, tropical notes, and orange confit accented by jasmine, honey, and ginger. The palate shows terrific fruit weight and a satin-y density that’s offset by striking acidity— we love drinking this wine over the course of three or four days in its youth to watch it evolve.
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